• Jeep Yj Manual Transmission Fluid
• 1997 Jeep Wrangler Owners Manual

TJ Fluid Type/Capacities. Jeep Capacity/Size My Brand & Part Number OEM Replacement interval. Transmission, Manual (5spd NV3550) 2.0 qt.

Common Maintenance Information How accurate this info will be for you is up to you to decide. Since I own a '98 4.0L TJ, I'll list some of the common things I am always looking up in the factory service manual (and as I find the info, for other models as well). In the cases where I find 2.5L related information, I will include that too.

I've also updated the list, where applicable, with info from an '04 factory manual. Note that unless otherwise specified, these values are for a stock vehicle. As we all know, any modifications to a vehicle can result in changes to the values I have listed below. Ultimately, you are responsible to ensure you have the correct information for your vehicle configuration. Engine Oil 2.4L 5 quarts 10W-30 2.5L 4 quarts 10W-30 4.0L 6 quarts 10W-30 Cooling System 2.4L 9 quarts 2.5L 9 quarts 4.0L 10.5 quarts Manual Transmission AX-5 3.3 quarts AX-15 3.25 quarts NV-1500 4.8 pints NV-3500 4.2 pints Automatic Transmission. 32RH 17.1 pints 30RH 14 pints 42RLE 17.6 pints (dry fill) Transfer Case NP-231 2.2 pints ATF+ or Dexron II NP-241 4.2 pints ATF+4 Lower Control Arms Front Axle bracket nut 85 ft. Front frame bracket nut 130 ft.

Rear Axle and Frame nut 130 ft. Upper Control Arms Axle bracket nut 55 ft. Frame bracket nut 55 ft. Stabilizer Bar Retainer bolts 40 ft. Link nut/bolt 40 ft. Track Bar Front - Frame/65 ft. Front - Axle/55 ft.

Rear - Frame/74 ft. Rear - Axle/74 ft. RE Front Adj. Track Bar Frame bracket nut 160 ft. Axle bracket bolt 74 ft. Rear Drive Shaft Rear yoke 14 ft. U-bolt NAPA Part # 534-10 (part number not confirmed by me) Front Drive Shaft Rear yoke 20 ft.

Front yoke 30 ft. D-30 axle Gear lube 2.5 pints GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-140 synthetic Diff cover bolts 30 ft. Wheel lugs 100 ft. Axle Nut 175 ft. D-35 axle Gear lube 3.5 pints GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-140 synthetic Diff cover bolts 30 ft.

Free antivirus software for windows 7. Wheel lugs 100 ft. D-44 axle front & rear Gear lube 4.0 pints GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-140 synthetic, Rubi = 75W-140 synthetic Diff cover bolts 30 ft. Wheel lugs 100 ft. Oil Filter Purolator PL14670 - standard size Purolator PL30001 - large size.

Fram PH-8A - also an oversize filter. my preference. DexronII fluid is NOT recommended for Chrysler automatic transmissions I constantly get requests as to the brand of fluids I use in my TJ. I certainly have not tried everything out there, far from it in fact. Quite some time back, I decided that this TJ was going to last for a while (I can't afford the time and money to keep building more of them when the old one wears out).

So this is the first vehicle that runs mostly synthetic fluids in the 30+ years I've owned vehicles. So I'll list those brands that I'm using and any comments that may be applicable to their selection. Manual Transmission - If you have a TJ with either an AX-5 or an AX-15 transmission, do NOT follow the transmission fluid recommendations in the owner's manual. It is a misprint. The factory service manual (FSM) does have the correct information in it. That being said, I use Redline MT-90 or Redline MTL fluid in my AX-15.

The GL-3/4 rating of this fluid means it does not have the harmful additives that cause synchronizer wear as experienced when running GL-5 rated fluids. When I switched to MT-90 (shortly after getting the TJ), the cold weather 1st to 2nd gear shift problem that the AX-15 is well noted for became virtually a non-issue. After running MT-90 for several years, I decided to try their MTL fluid. MTL is almost the same except that it is slightly lighter weight. I found that the last little bit of cold weather shifting problem that MT-90 almost cleared up was gone when MTL was used.

Redline is a very respected name and I don't think you can go wrong using it. I've never found it in the local AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.

I pick mine up from a performance shop that caters to the speed crowd. You can find it on-line too. I believe Summit Racing carries Redline Oils. It is highly unlikely you will find Redline at the usual auto parts store (AutoZone, Checker, PepBoys, etc). If you have a TJ with the NV3500 transmission, lots of folks use Penzoil Synchromesh manual transmission lube. Others prefer Royal Purple Synchromax fluid.

Any lube that meets Chrysler standard MS-9224 will work. Transfer Case - I use Valvoline ATF+3 or Valvoline Dexron II in the NP-231 t-case. I should note that in the '98 FSM, it says that ATF+ is recommended. In the '04 FSM, it says that ATF+4 is recommended (for the same transfer case). It would seem that Chrysler has moved along to the newer fluids as they were introduced even though the NV-231 stayed the same. I'm sure the newer fluids probably bring something better to the table but it would seem (from Chrysler's own documentation) that it doesn't matter too much.

Differentials - I use Mobil 1 75W-90 gear lube in both the front and rear differentials (D30 and D44 respectively). This is a GL-5 rated synthetic gear lube. Since I don't have problems with fluid contamination (such as getting water in the differential), I only change the fluid annually. The couple of extra dollars it costs for Mobil 1 is not an issue and the hard work that the ring and pinion gears see warrants a good lube, in my opinion. Some folks who live in wet areas change their diff fluids multiple times per year (water gets into the housing) and so opt to use regular dino oil versus synthetic.

Power Steering - In my opinion, this is one of the most overlooked fluids in the vehicle. If you are pushing over sized tires through the rocks and rutted trails, you owe it to your power steering system to routinely change the fluid. Why chance an expensive pump and steering gear box because you don't do a $10 fluid change? I've used Valvoline power steering fluid since my first change. It is readily available at most any auto parts store and reasonably priced.

I change mine annually, along with the diffs, tranny, etc. NOTE: ATF+4 is required on 2003 and newer TJs because Jeep switched the steering from Saginaw to a Mercedes Benz power steering system that year. 2002 and older TJs require power steering fluid. Brake fluid - I use DOT-3 brake fluid.

I can't say I have a favorite brand but I do stick with the brand names. In the past, I've used Valvoline fluid and found no problems with it.

The important thing is to always use fresh fluid from a sealed container. I prefer buying the smaller containers for this very reason. Brake fluid will suck moisture out of the air and this contaminates the fluid. Using it from a fresh container will help ensure you always have clean fluid.

Engine coolant - I have no brand loyalty here either, but do use a name brand, such as Prestone. I would recommend you consult your owner's manual or the FSM for your year vehicle as some TJs come with the lifetime coolant. If I remember correctly, you don't mix some of these new coolant types with the older types. Follow the specs in the owner's manual. Engine oil - I have been running Mobil 1 10W-30 virtually since day one.

I only average 10K miles per year which means I see about 3 oil changes per year. The extra $$ spent on full synthetic engine oil is worth it to me. Since '89, I've had two other Jeeps with 4.0L engines in them.

Both of them developed rear seal leaks by the time they had rolled up 75K miles. This is not at all an uncommon problem with 4.0L engines. So far, so good.I'm within a couple of months of hitting 75K miles and the rear of the engine is still nice and dry. Is this due to the Mobil 1 oil?

I don't know.but I do know that I also have no engine noise like I did on my '95 XJ. I believe it was piston slap but never actually checked into it.

Anyway, my 4.0 is as quiet as the day I bought it and I am expecting it to remain that way for some time to come. Here are some various write-ups that cover a variety of tasks that you may encounter while performing routine maintenance on your vehicle.

Since you live where it gets uber-cold during the winter, I'd run a synthetic gear lube in your tranny and Royal Purple Synchromax would be a good choice. That synthetic lubricants work and flow better in transmissions and engines when it gets extremely cold is my reasoning for that recommendation. And by no means am I a fan of synthetics for all situations. I don't run synthetic engine oil (it doesn't get cold enough where I live) and I'm about to convert my axle gear lubes from a synthetic to a conventional gear lube.

Your 2000 TJ 4.0L has the NV3550 transmission which is fairly fussy about what it uses. For a non-synthetic, you can use GM Synchromesh, Pennzoil Synchromesh, or Quaker State Synchromesh. For a synthetic, Royal Purple Synchromax would be a good choice. Jerry, I am in a pickle once again.

Jeep Yj Manual Transmission Fluid

How funny; it usually begins and ends with the local Jeep dealer. Anyway, I was reading over my FSM with the intention of tackling my first Transmission and Transfer case fluid change. I will be doing differentials soon, but the lockers have to be installed first. 4 Wheel Parts IS REALLY DRAGGING THEIR FEETGETTING ALL OF THE PARTS IN!!!!!! I will vent more on that later. Ok, you mention that the NV3550 is a little fussy about what oil she wants.

The dealer told me that I have to use a specific Mopar part number (4874464) and the Factory Service Manual goes out of its way to state 'USE only Mopar Part Number 4761542.' I am a little frustrated here as two Jeep dealers in my area want $20 per quart and as I am sure you are aware; they do not sell it by the pint, so I will be looking at a $60 fluid change for my transmission only. I want only the best for my Billy Goat, but really do not want to spend $60 for a change w/ a half quart left over. Heck, I just spent $3500 for lockers, an Axle, and gears, so I suppose I should stop complaining and just follow the advise of the Dealer/FSM. As always, many thanks sir! I'd go with Royal Purple Synchromax if you can find it Timberman, that's a synthetic that works really well in the NV3550. If you can't, GM and Pennzoil both make Synchromesh which is fully compatible too but neither are a synthetic.

If you live in an uber-cold climate, you want to stick with a synthetic like the RP Synchromax. If you live in a temperate climate, Synchromesh from GM or Pennzoil (they are identical) will be fine.

Is there a particular part number i should reference for the Royal Purple Synchromax. Also, have you ever used it in the NV3550? I am just a little nervous about going against the manual. Most of us Rookies are!! What do you have near you? Anyway.Whatever auto parts store near you.napa/autozone/advance auto/and the 4wheel parts will carry the RP sychromax or can order it. Should only need the name to order it.

Rural Purple Sychromax. There is only one of them. I was able to find dealers in my Area (i.e. Autozone and Gi Joes.).

So, I was messing around on Royalpurple.com and man, I am sold on that Synchromesh stuff. I think I will use the Max-Gear as soon as those guys a 4 wheel parts get my lockers and gears done (after the 500 mile break-in period of course). Will it hurt to run the Synchromax considering I live in Oregon?

Or, is it designed to work in more colder climates? Thanks DistortedTj. In the axles, I would stick with a conventional non-synthetic gear lube. It has been found recently by several axle manufacturers that non-synthetic gear lubes help the gears to run cooler as a conventional gear lube draws the heat out of the gears better than synthetic gear lubes do. In fact, Currie recently began requiring their customers to only use conventional gear lubes in their axles to maintain the axle warranty.

1997 Jeep Wrangler Owners Manual

Currie will void the warranty of a failed axle if they find it was loaded with synthetic. Personally, I'm switching my axle lubes from synthetic to Valvoline non-synthetic gear lube at my next axle gear lube change. In the axles, I would stick with a conventional non-synthetic gear lube. It has been found recently by several axle manufacturers that non-synthetic gear lubes help the gears to run cooler as a conventional gear lube draws the heat out of the gears better than synthetic gear lubes do. In fact, Currie recently began requiring their customers to only use conventional gear lubes in their axles to maintain the axle warranty. Currie will void the warranty of a failed axle if they find it was loaded with synthetic.

Personally, I'm switching my axle lubes from synthetic to Valvoline non-synthetic gear lube at my next axle gear lube change. I will do the same then. Thanks Jerry! They Guys at 4 wheel parts told me that I will have to change the gear oil after 500 miles (that is when they finally get the work done).

Is it difficult to change the differential Fluid? 4 wheel parts is throwing in an ARB D44 Diff cover for the rear and I was told that they make it a little easier to change the fluid. I sure don't know as I have never done it!! Is it difficult to change the differential Fluid? 4 wheel parts is throwing in an ARB D44 Diff cover for the rear and I was told that they make it a little easier to change the fluid. I sure don't know as I have never done it!!

Nope very simple, just can be a bit messy. Take the fill plug out, then take all the bolts off but the top one. Loosen the top one and then pull the bottom of the cover to break the seal.

Oil will start leaking into ur pan there. After its all drained, take the top bolt off too, take off the cover, clean it up nicely, and inspect to make sure everything is good and all the teeth are there. Clean the edges where the old seal is with a credit card like material or something, make sure you do not scratch them, then use rtv and put a line around the edges to create a new 'gasket' and simply put the cover back on. Fill w/ lube. Nope very simple, just can be a bit messy. Take the fill plug out, then take all the bolts off but the top one.

Loosen the top one and then pull the bottom of the cover to break the seal. Oil will start leaking into ur pan there. After its all drained, take the top bolt off too, take off the cover, clean it up nicely, and inspect to make sure everything is good and all the teeth are there. Clean the edges where the old seal is with a credit card like material or something, make sure you do not scratch them, then use rtv and put a line around the edges to create a new 'gasket' and simply put the cover back on.

Fill w/ lube THANKS TRIPLE!! Man, there are so many cool 'write-ups' on the web for those of us who as Mechanically un-inclined. I found a site called 4x4xplor.com which has some really helpful tip for noobs like me as well. You gotta learn somehow right??